Frequently Asked Questions

Electric bicycles use batteries as a source of power and a quiet DC electric motor as the driving mechanism. Electric bikes have several modes of operation and can be pedaled, power-driven or pedaled with the help of 'power-assistance'.

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Most of our electric bikes and scooters are 'throttle controlled' - meaning you use a throttle to control the power and speed at which you travel. To get started, simply twist the throttle to accelerate and hold it in position to maintain speed.

But some bikes don't use a throttle at all, and are classified as 'pedal assist'. Once you start pedaling, a torque sensor picks up the movement and power integrates seamlessly while you ride. No extra hand control or throttle is required - just pedal and go automatically. Once you use the brakes or quit pedaling, the power is deactivated and you need to pedal again (lightly) to re-activate pedal assistance. This option is especially popular with women and seniors because of it's simplicity - but it's great for anyone.

For people who prefer full control, a throttle is a nice option since it operates just like a motorcycle. But if you're looking for simplified operation, pedal assist is great because it does all the work automatically. Keep in mind: you have to pedal (lightly) for power to be supplied with pedal assist. With a throttle, no pedaling is required at all. Please Note: Some e-bike models include pedal assist (PAS) and a throttle!

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The speed of an electric bike will vary based upon several factors. With no pedaling, U.S. law restricts the speed of electric bicycles to 20 mph or less. This ensures you don't need a license, registration or special safety gear to legally operate your bicycle.

Most electric bikes are rated between 15-18 mph by the manufacturer. But the actual speed will vary depending on rider weight, terrain and road conditions. Some riders will be able to exceed the top rated speeds - while others may experience slightly less power. Keep in mind, U.S. law does not restrict how fast you can travel while pedaling, so most riders will easily exceed the top rated speeds while providing assistance.

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The 'range' of an electric bike will also vary upon several factors. One of the main factors in determining how far you can travel on a single charge, is the type of battery you choose. Typically, Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) batteries have the longest range - anywhere from 25-40 miles per charge (with pedaling) - but cost the most money. Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries average between 20-30 miles and are moderately priced, while sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries are the cheapest, with only 15-25 miles per charge.

Other factors which determine the range of a single charge include: rider weight, amount of pedaling, wind, road conditions and terrain (such as inclines or declines).

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Battery charge times will vary between manufacturers, models and battery types. Typically, the initial charge will take 6-12 hours. For routine charging, higher quality batteries (such as Li-Ion and NiMH) will take less time - but you should expect to wait anywhere from 2-6 hours between charges.

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Battery technology continues to improve everyday. Currently, there are 3 main types of batteries used in electric bicycles:

• Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) - Lithium Ion batteries are the highest quality batteries available in today's market. Although they cost the most money, they have the longest life, the lowest weight and the best total range per charge.
• Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) - NiMH batteries are a mid-range battery type, and in our opinion, the best value. They're light-weight, have an extended life span and provide great range when compared to the more common (and outdated) SLA battery.
• Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) - Sealed lead acid batteries have been around for decades. Although they're the cheapest form of battery technology, they have the shortest life, the lowest range and are extremely heavy when compared to other battery types.

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Battery life will vary depending on the type of battery you choose and how well you take care of your battery. Typically, Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries last the longest - anywhere from 700-1000 charges. Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries have a life span of about 500-700 charges, while sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries last between 300-500 charges.

To extend the life of your battery, charge the battery regularly and promptly after each use. If you store your bike for prolonged periods of time, both the batteries and charger should be stored at temperatures above freezing and recharged every four weeks. The longer a battery sits uncharged, the faster the life will be reduced.

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Not only are electric bikes fun, they're an extremely economical form of alternative transportation! It typically costs around $0.10 to charge an electric battery. Even with the oldest and least efficient battery technology (SLA), it costs less than $0.01 per mile to operate an electric bike. Li-Ion and NiMH cost even less! Plus, you don't have to worry about a license or registration - and maintenance is minimal.

Compare that to gas-powered vehicles which average about 25 miles per gallon. With gas prices at $3.50 - $4.00 per gallon, it costs about $0.15 per mile for gas alone - or 1500% more than an electric bike. Add in license costs, registration, maintenance and other fees, and the cost skyrockets! According to US Government figures, the average cost of driving and maintaining a motor vehicle in the United States is $0.54 per mile.

More about how much it costs to ride an electric bike...

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Electric bikes are very safe! Intelligent functions are incorporated into every bike we sell and vary between manufacturers. Most include automatic power cut-off features, and all bikes use standard electrical safety components such as circuit breakers and fuses to protect riders. Although it's possible to be shocked by mishandling or misusing these products, it's very unlikely when used properly. If a shock is to occur, not enough voltage is present in any of our bikes to constitute a serious safety threat.

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EZIP and IZIP are both owned and operated by Currie Technologies, Inc.. At first glance, many of their products appear to be similar. But there are some significant differences that you should know about! To find out more, see our article:

The Difference Between Currie's IZIP vs. EZIP Brand...

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When it comes to e-bikes, you have two main choices to consider: convert a standard bicycle with an electric bike kit -or- purchase a factory built e-bike model. Here are the pros and cons of both options so you can decide which one is right for you:

Electric Bike Kits

Electric bike kits are great for "do-it-yourselfers" and provide enormous flexibility over factory built e-bike models. One big advantage is that you can choose almost any bicycle you like (with steel forks!), which is great if you have a specific preference or you're too large or heavy for a standard e-bike model. Since factory models are often limited in speed and power by Federal regulations, conversion kits give you the option to go faster with higher power and torque - great for bigger riders, steep hills and inclines.

On the downside, you'll be required to do some work and basic mechanical ability is required. Plus, it will be virtually impossible to get the "nice, clean look" of a factory built e-bike since many of the components will be exposed or difficult to hide.

Factory E-Bike Models

Factory built e-bikes are great for casual riders or daily commuters who don't need excessive power or speed. If you're average in size and weight (5'1"- 6'2", 100 - 230lbs) and ride on mostly flat surfaces, then a factory built e-bike is great. All the pre-built electric bike models we carry (ie: IZIP, EZIP, EG, etc.) meet Federal regulations for electric bikes, which means no license, insurance or registration is required. Plus, there's no work involved with a factory built e-bike model - just plug it in and go. The wires and other electrical components are nicely packaged and hidden, providing a clean and stylish look.

On the downside, factory built e-bikes are limited in speed and power. Although these bikes can handle larger riders, the output will be reduced, and more pedalling will be required to get up steep hills and inclines. It will also be harder to modify a factory setup to meet your evolving transportation needs.

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These days, most e-bikes use "brushless" hub motors. These motors require almost
no maintenance and last much longer than "brushed" hub motors - but are a bit more expensive. Here are the details about how they work so you can decide which is best:

Brushed Hub Motors

In a brushed hub motor, electrical energy is transferred through small metal "brushes"' that contact a rotating part of the motor called the commutator. Because there is physical contact between stationary and moving parts, wear will occur, and over time (about every 3000 miles), the brushes will have to be replaced. Replacement is easy, but getting the motor back together isn't! Brushed hub motors require less complex controllers than brushless motors, so the systems are less expensive. But we always recommend brushless hub motors because of ease-of-maintenance.

Brushless Hub Motors

With a brushless motor, there is no contact between any of the parts inside the motor. The end result is a motor with no theoretical life limit. Brushless motors have more sophisticated controllers than brushed motors, and there are many more connections from the motor to the controller. The motor has three windings. Power is applied to individual windings depending on where the motor is in its revolution. As the motor passes one winding, the controller moves the power to the next winding to keep the motor turning. We highly recommend brushless motors to all our customers.

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With some e-bike kits, you have the option of a front or rear hub motor. Each type of motor has advantages and disadvantages:

Front Wheel Hub Motor

A front hub kit is normally much easier to install than a rear wheel kit since you don't have to worry about gearing or derailers. Using a front hub motor also helps equalize the weight of your bicycle since the batteries are normally mounted on the rear rack. Many riders feel like they have more control with a front wheel kit and they're great for casual bikers or lower power systems (under 750 watts). When riding, the rider can easily see the front wheel and respond quickly to problems such as wheel spinning.

Rear Wheel Hub Motor

Rear wheel drive has the advantage of better traction which is great for hills and inclines. And because the rear frame dropouts are normally stronger than the front fork dropouts, a rear wheel can handle more torque and increased power. Plus, you can still use front suspension with a rear wheel kit. But be aware: if you apply too much throttle and the rear wheel starts to spin, you could loose control since you can't turn the wheel to correct for a slip like you can with a front wheel. Rear drive puts the entire weight of the system on the rear of the bike which can make the bike harder to handle.

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Installing an electric bike kit is relatively easy if you have basic mechanical and electrical skills. The following link provides general instructions for installing an electric bike kit:

Electric Bike Kit Installation Instructions...

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If you purchase any of our e-bike kits WITH THE BATTERY, we pre-wire everything for you so you won't need to worry about wiring it yourself. But if you'd like to replace, upgrade or use your own batteries, you'll need to know how to wire your batteries. Below you'll find examples of how to wire 3 or 4 batteries in series for 36V or 48V systems:

Coming soon...

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